BOTH of mine didn’t require any of this crazy nonsense to fix.

All I did was (for wax floating at top and fogginess):

1: Turn on for 6 hours and then turn off all night 3 days in a row. Let completely cool down all night. On the 3rd night when still warm I tilted mine SLOOOOOOOOOWLY, almost all the way upside down until some of the oil substance at the bottom went to the top, so that the wax would not completely stick to the glass at the top when cooled.

2: Then the 4th day, take the glass off the base and tap the top side of the glass where the wax is floating, with your finger, a plastic kitchen tool or whatever you want, but don’t smack it hard to break the glass.

3: If that doesn’t loosen the wax and make it sink, then lightly move the glass in the motion of a clock hand while tapping it.

4: Once the wax breaks loose from the top and sinks to the bottom, put back on the base, turn on and let it whirl.

I left mine on all night, from 11pm – 7am and when I woke VOILA, BOTH my lamps were like BRAND NEW

NO OPENING, NO DUMPING CHEMICALS, NADA!

I tried this completely on a whim, just wondered if it would work and it did.

I’ve tried running the lamp for several hours at a time, hoping this residual matter would melt and mix with the blobs but so far there is no improvement.

I really love this lamp but fear I’ll probably have to return it as well – this time for a credit to my card – as I now have very little faith in Lave Lite products.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

If the lava is connected to the heating coil and just not leaving from the bottom of the bottle then it is either the wrong wattage or voltage bulb, or worst case scenario the liquid or wax is ruined and you will need to either fix it yourself or replace it.

What you need is an R-20 100 Watt bulb, and it must be 120 volts too. Any other bulb type (including the 130 volt R20 100 watt) will only melt the lava and cause it to move around at the bottom, no flow or blobs.

It may sound ridiculous but I tried every other bulb under the sun and in the end it is that EXACT bulb type only that works.

I cannot find these bulbs anywhere in the town I live in or in the cities surrounding. I had to purchase my bulbs from an online store that Lava Lites site suggested, and out of all of them only two of the stores actually had them in stock, it sucks but it is SO worth the time and money.

I know for a fact this works because I have fixed 3 lava lamps (250 ounce, 52 ounce and 32 ounce) using the CR6000 2 stage PUR pitcher filter. If you decide to go this route make sure it is the exact filter I mentioned, other people have tried better water filters and it would strain out the surfactant which results in no flow.

I know from first hand experience the CR6000 2 stage PUR pitcher filter model will clean the newer lamps with no loss in performance.

Again it is the CR6000 2 stage Oval shaped PUR pitcher filter and you can find them at any K-mart of Wal-mart near you for maybe 12 – 15 dollars.

Since you have an original model there is a possibility it might not work for you, so do this at your own risk! If you have any newer lamps that are cloudy I am confident this filter will fix them.

Solution: higher heat light bulb. Instructions say never increase the strength of e heat of the bulb in order not to burn the lava, but if it’s not working anyway, why not give it a try? Mine seems to be working now. Good luck?

Now there are a lot of sperate “balls” and not the lovely flowing wax. There are numerous medium sized balls with a lot of other tiny wax small wax bubbles. Very unappealing and unattavctive…can someone suggest how to correct.
Really miss the elagant calming affect of my old lava lamp

I have a 1973 lava lamp that has recently become cloudy.

When the lamp (at the base) is switched on, the “lava” flows up and down the glass OK but the surrounding fluid is cloudy.

Have you any hints on removing the cloudiness?

Thanks in advance for any useful info!