Categories
Stumble it!
Lightsabers 2.0
I think that I may have just out-nerded myself. You see, the 2-minute dueling sabers were fun for a couple of days, but they weren’t the most durable things in the world and were a bit lacking in the realism department. So I decided to build a nicer set of “elegant weapons from a more civilized time age”.
The Hilt
After researching lightsabers, I learned that the original lightsaber props were made from 1950’s vintage Graflex camera flash guns like might have been used on old press cameras. In fact, the Luke Skywalker saber was pretty much an unmodified flash handle. If you want a true replica of the Luke Skywalker or Darth Vader sabers, you can always get a Graflex flash on ebay but they do cary a stiff premium because every Star Wars geek has the same idea.
I opted to start from scratch, so I purchased some 1 3/16 o.d. (some schedule 40 size) aluminum tubing from a metals house. I chose this size because it looked about right to me and a “C” battery slid nicely inside with a little spare room for a wire. I bought a 2 ft length of the tubing and cut it in half at a 45 degree angle, and twisted it in some sandpaper to give it a nice machined look.
Reminder: You can cut aluminum no problem on your table saw with a carbide blade.
I had an old bicycle seat post that happened to fit perfectly inside the aluminum tubing that I bought, so I used that to make the bushings for the blades and the battery terminals. The rear battery terminal also serves as the end plug/battery retainer.
The Sith
For the Vader version, I cut a shroud from some PVC conduit and gave it a wrinkle finish to emulate the vintage camera equipment feel of the original. strips of rubber cut from an old auto floor mat make up the grip. The mythology says that the original propmaker used strips of windshield-wiper as the grip.
The Jedi
The Skywalker saber sports a spartan, gripless motif. I chopped up the heat-sink from an old pentium to form a cool space-age looking thing-a-module to adorn the top. Gold connectors from the edge of the circuit board finish it off.
The Blades
There are two popular ways to light up a saber. The first is EL, or electro-luminescent wire. This is a glowing wire that you power up with a high-voltage transformer. This technology provides a nice, bright even glow, and is probably the preferred method. The second common way is to use a single, 3-5 watt Luxeon high-output LED located in the hilt to light up the blade.
I used an alternate method that I learned from Instructables member jmumby. This method chains a bunch of bright LEDs wired in parallel to form the core of the blade. The result is an extremely bright blade. However, there is a slight “rope light” effect visible due to the individual points of light. This problem can be mostly mitigated through the use of a suitable diffuser.
Tip: When you order your LEDs, look for the brightest, but also look for the widest viewing angle that you can find. The wide-angle diodes look much brighter. Don’t forget resistors. Here is a neat calculator for finding the correct current-limiting resistors to match your LEDs.
Again - before you decide to build an LED blade, I would research EL wire as an alternate light source.
After soldering up the LED chain, I tied a thread to one end. Then I pulled the led array into a length of 1/2 inch o.d. milky polyethylene tubing, which I first sanded to increase it’s light diffusing properties. That tube then gets inserted into a 3/4 inch clear outer tube which received an interior sanding to further promote light diffusion.
If you plan to use your sabers for dueling, you will want to use polycarbonate tubing, as this stuff is nearly indestructible. If you don’t plan to whack anything with it, you can use the more commonly found acrylic tubing.
Wow, “the kids” really like them.
Related: The Flashlightsaber
Wow. Those are extremely cool Steve. I wish I was around to actually hold one and try it out. Video soon?
Those things are awesome! You have out done yourself this time. I think the title of “alpha geek” is yours.
Thanks Fellas!
Unable to leave well-enough alone, I just added some aluminum grips to the Jedi version. I’ll post a pic when the JB-Weld dries.
steve
When is the kit for THIS available??!??! Awesome job!
Where did you get the polyethylene tubing with what appears to be a rounded tip?
Thomas,
The polyethylene tubing is available at most hardware and home stores. I used 1.5 inch o.d. 3/8 inch i.d.
Good call, I neglected to mention the tip, which is built-up using hot glue. Hot glue dries to about the same milky white color as the poly-tube.
A more civilized AGE.
any chance of getting a parts list (LEDs, resistors, etc.) for the dad’s not quite proficent at such electronic stuff but not afraid of a soldering gun either?
one more thing, what is holding the hold thing together i.e. what keeps the guts from sliding out but at the same time allow you to replace a battery?
Thomas,
See the picture of those two pieces of tubing with the battery connectors? Well the forward one is glued inside the saber body tube, and the rear one is held in by a set screw, and serves as the battery “cap”
The blade is held in by 2 more set screws.
Sorry for the incomplete picture, but this was meant to be more inspirational than a full set of “plans”.
Ed -
Here is the data on the leds and resistors that I used:
I actually only used 5o blue leds, not 100 like it says in the above image.
My power was out last night for hours and I was wishing I had one of your light sabers. Looks like a nice night light, as well as the coolest kid gift.
thanks thats all I felt was really missing from the what you posted, because most other answers to questions can be inferred.
how did u get it to light up in different colors? it looks really cool
alpha geek? I think not Über-geek would be better. Cool toys m8, well done
hey, steve. GREAT JOB!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
i have a couple of questions thogh…
1) what store did you get the polycarbonate tubing, cuz i looked at home depot and lowe’s out here in cary, nc, and they don’t have it.
2) i don’t know if it’s an illusion, but it looks to me that the handles are at a slightly bigger proportion than they really should be. mebbe, the right “proportiion” should be shrunk to 3/4 the bottom of the grip of Vaders. i don’t know, post a link up for a video in the near future!!!!
anyway, like i said, GREAT JOB!!!!!!!!!!!
that’s amazing!
Thanks Stephen,
No, you will not find the right outer tubing at home depot. You will need to get it from a plastics supply house. I got mine from a little place here in seattle, but I’m sure there is a local supplier somewhere near you.
If not you can always mail-order it. (you’ll have to search)
The inner tubing is a milky white polyethylene, and you will be able to find it at Home Deopt.
good luck.
s
Hey, looked online at home depot, and all it came up with for polyethylene was a cutting board. lol.
i did google it, however, and found multiple lengths, widths, etc.
what was the size you had to make these, along with the size of the polycarbonate?
What type of battery connector did you use and where can I find one? How did you seal the blade into the hilt? Can you post a schematic of the inner circuitry? How did you connect the negative part of the led’s back to the battery, and what were the viewing angles of your LED’s?….really cool project
Where did you run the wire of the negative ends of the led’s back to the battery? What type and where did you get your battery connector/holder? How did you seal the blade into the hilt? What was the viewing angle of your led’s? Can you post a schematic of the inner circuitry?…really cool project
have you thought about using a multi tube telescopic baton for the “laser” part? if spring activated you could have just an handle and when you turned it on it would light up and spring out (like the real thing”)
McMaster-Carr sells polyethylene tubing for about 50 cents per foot, and has 4′ clear polycarbonate tubes for about $5 per. I used them to buy materials for the lab I worked at, and then started using them for most of my hardware needs. You’ll need to put a “company name” in to complete your order but I just made something up. They’re pretty useful in general for DIY projects that require specific, and somewhat obscure, materials.
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Derek,
I took the springs for the battery connectors from some old broken toys. I soldered some wires to them, then epoxied them inside some short pieces of tubing which fit inside the main hilt tube.
so what was the viewing angle on your LEDs…I can find some 40 degree ones and some 120 degree ones, but the 120s are much more expensive…will it work alright with 50 or 100 of the 40 degree LEDs?
Jeff -
You know, I’m not sure. I ordered mine before I knew about viewing angles, and didn’t pay attention. I learned about it later and thought that I would pass it along.
steve
steve will you post a list of everything you need please.
So then how much do you think the LEDs cost you, somewhere around $1.00 each, or about $0.10 each, I think that’s the difference between the two types. Thanks again
Jeff,
Here are the reds that I bought
and here are the blues
But I still had to order the right resistors from DigiKey, so you should check there for LEDs as well, and maybe not have to wait/pay for 2 different shipments.
any chance you have a link/part number to the resistors as well, and those are the LEDs i found, thankfully pretty cheap. Is there no way to rig the resistors that come with the LEDs to work on this project?
I’d swear from the pics that the blades are tapered but don’t see any mention of how to achieve that. Am I missing something?
I’d swear from the pics that the blades are tapered but don’t see any mention of how to achieve that. Am I missing something?
Rob -
They are not tapered, and they are really long. It is just an optical illusion due the perspective from which the picture was taken.
steve will you post a comment with a list of everthing you need.
Bob - Sure, when I get a chance.
Hey, I love this site and I want to try doing this. Where did you find the 1/2 inch o.d. milky polyethylene tubing? Thanks!
Timbo - Home Depo, Lowes, Ace, etc. should all have it.
whare can i get them i wana buy some oh and when the wire runs out of power?
Hey Steve,
This is a great idea, in fact I started building an d selling these about a month and a half before you posted this!
Take a look at my website:
http://www.lightsabercreations.com
Kevin S.
Lightsaber Creations
A while back, while I was browsing the internet for parts (I am currently working on a lightsaber for myself) I found this website: http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Default.aspx. It sells specially -machined parts specifically for being used in lightsabers. I have not ordered any of their lightsaber parts for use in my saber–yet, but I have ordered a blade for my saber, and it arrived on time, and was as strong as anyone could possibly want a blade to be. I also found this website: http://plecterlabs.com/. It sells very nice electronic modules for use in sabers. They are expensive, but are (as far as I know) the best on the market. I have not ordered anything from that website yet. All in all, if one were to build a saber from the stuff on these two websites, it would be a few hundred dollars, but it would be a good-looking, tough, real-sounding saber.
For those of you who want to learn more about the building of nice custom sabers, look here: http://www.padawansguide.com/lightsabers.shtml
I applaud your dedication and skill, however, when do you think you will build one that actually uses a REAL laser?
Admin says: “This one does use a real laser”.
I want one so bad.
These sabers are extremely cool! There are many web sites out there about making very good hilts. I’m making one. Thanks, man!
Here are some links:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Lightsaber-for-33-in-33-minutes/
http://www.wilcoxusa.net/saber/step-by-step.htm
You can spend around $30 in each hilt. But they look very good. They could cost like $15-20 if you use aluminium tubing instead of chrome.
Damien Seawright he said to you Damien need Darth Vader’s lightsaber for Damien Seawright need it for fighting Skis
to make a new red ligthsaber to like most Aeicma People will
to that for Damien seawright and damien’s Friend Name is Jhon Braden 3 Boys to need Blue lightsaber and need one sharingan
one for John to he need one to
hey i want to know wich type of materials or what things can i use to actually play with them, i want to build a lightsaber that i can train with it, it would be nice if you can upload a manual describing step by step so i can do it right… thanks
Thou art my god! Thou art Alpha and Omega!
Seriously, I’m gonna build one. : )
I didn´t understand did you used 50 leds or you used 1 led and the 50 is how bright it is??????????
If you used 50 leds how did you conect all of them with the baterie????????????????
you made a very good job, and thank you very much for posting the tutorial to make the blade
Hi, greetings from Chile!!!! woow great and amazing construction Steve, do you have any instructions manual for build the light saber?
can you send me an e-mail?
thanks men!
yours light saber rules!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
Thak you to so muh
to said to you my lightsaber is red for Damien seawright
Hi! cool lightsabers u build, can u send me an e-mail with an instructions manual??